Burgundy Trip (2011 vintage) - Day Three, Written by Jason Busby

A short sleep and up and going in the frosty morning to Sylvie Esmonin for a full day of meetings. Met by the old brown Labrador before Sylvie came smiling out of her laboratory to take us to her cellar for one of my favourite tastings.

Sylvie Esmonin

Half a dozen Gevrey’s and a Volnay finishing with a small parcel of Bourgogne Blanc Sylvie crafts. Lovely and my first visit to her property. I hope I get to return again soon. 15 minutes later we were at Joseph and Phillip Roty’s winery met by Joseph’s widow Francoise as he sadly passed away in 2008 and Phillip (son) is presently beating pancreatic cancer.
Philippe popped in towards the end and still has rosy cheeks and a cheeky smile to give us additional info on the wines and to reassure us of his health. Lovely to see him and taste his wonderful wines which are always a year behind everyone else so even better to get an idea of the 2010’s. Once again a favourite estate of mine that gets an annual EP purchase of the Pressonniers and the Marsannay when I feel flush!

We had time for a Bistro lunch in Nuits with the menu of the day which was a hearty 3 courses that none of us finished but after this quick hour’s respite and a romantic walk with the UN across to Henri Gouges.

Gregory Gouges

Famed for his Nuits St Georges from several blocks along with a white this was always going to be a treat. A new wine tasting room had been constructed since my last visit but first into the deep, cool cellar to taste from barrel with Gregory Gouges, Christian’s nephew. The grapes are gravity fed to keep the skins intact as much as possible then sorted and pressed but unusually chilled for a few days to temper the fermentation as the weather was unseasonable warm. They have also practised organic techniques for over a decade across the whole estate and only use 20% new oak in all cuvees, so you can feel good about yourself when quaffing the odd bottle. After nearly an hour in the cellar tasting several wines we withdrew to the tasting room to look at a few 2007’s. They were showing amazing well and a suitable finish to a thoroughly enlightening experience.

Whilst feeling weary and a little ratty we drove the scenic route along the valley back towards Beaune to meet Decelle-Villa, a first visit by Bancroft to this very new winery, part of the Mas Amiel stable where we already have the Mas Amiel wines, their Bordeaux and two of the Burgundies that are impressive and well priced so an impression had been made, but we hadn’t met the winemaker yet. When The Pincher eventually found the street and we bludgeoned into a winery entrance we were met by the youthful Jean Lupatelli who had just come out of a few weeks of the challenging 2012 vintage and looked like he hadn’t slept for a few weeks.

Jean Lupatelli

The life of a winemaker s isn’t as glamorous as many think! We had a brief meeting upstairs to go over introductions etc then through the winery and onto the ageing cellar which was huge, shared with another winemaker but Decelle-Villa still had quite a selection. We tasted 20 wines from many appellations white and red with some outstanding and interesting results but after a final review upstairs where the sun had disappeared we realised it was getting on for 7.30pm and we had been there for nearly 3 hours. We said our au revoirs and shot back to the hotel (over 30mins away)for a 2 minute turnaround and sourced a restaurant within 100 yds that looked rather posh but wasn’t too pricey for the Bancroft purse. Amazing food but disappointing wines (sent one back corked) but it sorted us out for a brief nap and ready for our final day.


Written by Jason Busby, Director