Early rise for a stodgy croissant and some yoghurt and a few strong coffees to wake the taste buds and the body. A lovely start to a winter’s day with a Puligny tasting at Jacques Carillon’s pristine winery.
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| Jacques Carillon |
Having recently divided the Carillon hectares with his brother, Jacques continues to be pragmatic and focussed making possibly the best, certainly the most sought after, Puligny Bancroft are lucky to stock. Just six perfectly formed wines concluding with the Bienvenues-Batard Montrachet from the perfect clay and limestone terroir. Unctuous, elegant, nutty, citrusy, meringue and much more - sadly only a sip - simply amazing.
Next we were given the run around by The Pincher and his pinching skills on the sat nav as we went from Patrick Javillier’s home to wine shop in town, eventually being collected by his daughter Marian. The Bourgogne Blancs are my favourites at this domaine as they have weight and attitude closer to a Meursault but not in price. Then four cuvees of Meursault to rival the best. The climax was another Grand Cru – Corton Charlemagne which was pure pleasure in a glass.
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| Marian Javillier |
A quick scoot up the road to Paul Pillot where his son Thierry, who is slowly taking over from his father, met us with his usual cheery smile as if we were family. In fact, the rest of the family joined us - father and sister for the longest ‘meeting/tasting’ yet. Thirteen wines from all over the Chassagne and Puligny appellations with clean, approachable 2011’s that have the consistency our customers adore.
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| Thierry and Chrystelle Pillot |
Moving towards mid afternoon and not time for lunch we had a short drive to Meursault for more whites from Jobard. We entered the perfectly formed cellar under their house to taste several traditionally styled Meursault concluding with a 2007 Premier Cru proving the quality and aging potential. Drizzly rain and fading light met us as we felt like tunnel rats spending most of the day underground and grabbing a quick baguette lunch back in Beaune at 5.30, whilst trying to locate Gros and Parent. Another Pincer error pointed out several times by The Smoker who possibly smoked half a packet of reds during this half hour getting wet and cold.
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| Francois and Mathias Parent |
But it was well worth the persistence as we met Francois Parent who presides over both Gros and Parent and thankfully some red as the dentures were causing some problems due to the acid content in the last two days of white wine swilling. Lucky thirteen reds tasted including one I follow and purchase myself (the cheapest sadly!). It may have been late, I’d only had half a baguette all day, I was wet, cold and struggling with my French (not unusual) not to mention fatigue but this was all forgotten with three Grand Crus Echezeaux, Clos Vougeot and Richebourg to conclude the days tasting. I have no words to describe how privileged I felt.
Less than 5 minutes to drop into the hotel as we were running late for our booking at my favourite restaurant, Ma Cuisine. A modest bistro with good, not fantastic food, but a wine list to die for. Very keen pricing that you wouldn’t get in the UK means you can drink further up the list for the same buck. The owners are always visible in this 30 seater restaurant that still had patrons trying to get in after 10pm. We deserved a good meal and were treated to the whole experience.
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