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Wednesday, 8 October 2014

Suckling on Simcic: 95 points and favourite of three

James Suckling's recent report on Slovenian wines reveals Simcic is one of his three favourite producers in Slovenia - re-posted with all tasting notes here below.


Marjan and Bancroft's James Wainscott at our Annual Portfolio Tasting at the Westbury this February
TASTING REPORT: 30 OUTSTANDING SLOVENIAN WINES

September 30th, 2014

"I have been a fan of top Slovenian wines for some time now. I know a number of the best producers. I appreciate their beautiful vineyards and their passion for winemaking.
Slovenia is a clean and modern country with only about two million people. The whole country is slightly smaller in size than New Jersey and includes about 20,000 hectares of vineyards.

The best wines clearly come from the area of Brda. It is geographically part of the area of Friuli's Collio, and it contains the lion's share of the best vineyards. Brda accounts for 2,300 hectares of the 3,000 hectares of Collio. Slovenian winemakers say they have the best terroirs and microclimates.

The best producers of Brda accelerate with the same grape types as their Italian neighbors, from chardonnay and pinot grigio to pinot noir and merlot, not to mention ribolla gialla, which is one of my favorites. Many blend varietals together in their wines for complexity - both red and white.

One downside for me with Solvenian wines is that some producers have a tendency to over-extract in winemaking, making their wines a little heavy. I like the wines from the region a little more refined and delicate. But perhaps this richer style is the true character of the region?

I tasted the current releases as well as some reserve wines from who I believe are the three best Slovenian producers: Simičič, Movia and Kabaj. I visited them all a few years back.

Simičič is the most modern-styled winemaker making bold, ultra-clean, and stylish reds and white. Kabaj makes wines that are both modern and also hipster. He makes some wines in amphora but I didn't get a chance to taste them for this small report. Meanwhile, Movia makes wines that are wonderfully unique - even weird. For example, I loved Movia's wine called Lunar 8. Half Moon, a pure ribolla gialla. It's totally natural with no sulfur or filtration. And the yeast sediment in the bottle is about one third of the bottle, making it cloudy. But it's a soulful and unusual experience to taste the wine. Decant before serving.

The top Slovenian wines - both white and red - age extremely well. So don't be afraid to try one if you find it.

SIMIČIČ CHARDONNAY GORIŠKA BRDA MARJAN SIMIČIČ OPOKA
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2010
· SCORE 95
TASTING NOTES
A white with lots of decadent and ripe character on then nose slice papaya and apple. Full body, loads of wonderful and exotic fruit yet the bright acid balance keeps this going. This a dead ringer for a single vineyard Kistler chardonnay. Drink or hold.

SIMIČIČ RIBOLLA GORIŠKA BRDA MARJAN SIMIČIČ OPOKA
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2009
· SCORE 94
TASTING NOTES
Lots of dried pineapple and pear character on the nose and palate in this ribolla. Full body, layered and very fruity. So much apricot, peach and lemon in the aftertaste. Great richness and intensity to this. Drink or hold.

SIMIČIČ SAUVGINON BLANC GORIŠKA BRDA MARJAN SIMIČIČ OPOKA
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2010
· SCORE 94
TASTING NOTES

This is so aromatic and rich with loads of dried pineapple and honey character. It's full body, dense and extremely ripe with so much dried tropical fruit flavors. It's a wonderful contrast of richness and brightness. Drink now.

SIMIČIČ SAUVIGNON BLANC GORIŠKA BRDA MARJAN SIMIČIČ OPOKA
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2009
· SCORE 94
TASTING NOTES
This is a beautiful example of a mature sauvignon blanc. Aromas of dried pineapple and slice green apple with hints of chalk. This is full-bodied, ripe and intense with a light toffee apple, cream and meringue aftertaste. Very long and flavorful. Drink now.

SIMIČIČ CHARDONNAY GORIŠKA BRDA MARJAN SIMIČIČ OPOKA
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2009
· SCORE 93
TASTING NOTES

Very attractive aromas of cream, yogurt and tropical fruits. It's full body, with round and rich texture with toasted coconut, meringue and dried fruit. So fascinating and beautiful. Drink or hold.

SIMIČIČ CHARDONNAY GORIŠKA BRDA MARJAN SIMIČIČ SELEKCIJA
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2011
· SCORE 93
TASTING NOTES This is a dense white that shows in impressive amount of dried apple, peach and pineapple character on the nose and palate. It's full body, with hints of toasted almond and olive oil. Yet it's fresh and very lively. Drink now.   

SIMIČIČ GORIŠKA BRDA TEODOR RDEČE SELEKCIJA
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2008
· SCORE 92
TASTING NOTES
A red with lots of grilled meat, smoked nut, green olive, spearmint, and currant character. Full body, round tannins and a juicy and flavorful finish. Soft and caressing

SIMIČIČ MERLOT GORIŠKA BRDA OPOKA
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2009
· SCORE 92
TASTING NOTES
Gorgeous nose of black olives, dark berry and nutmeg with hints of cloves. Full body, soft and silky tannins and plummy finish. Lots of juicy and delicious fruit here. Drink or hold.

SIMIČIČ PINOT NOIR GORIŠKA BRDA
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2011
· SCORE 92
TASTING NOTES
Lots of bright fruit with ripe strawberry and flower character. Full body, round and rich tannins and a fresh and clean finish. Needs a year or two to soften.

SIMIČIČ PINOT NOIR GORIŠKA BRDA
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2010
· SCORE 92
TASTING NOTES

Reminds me of a Russian River pinot noir from California with plum, orange peel and cherry aromas and flavors. Full body, soft and silky tannins and a long and delicious finish. Drink or hold.

SIMIČIČ GORIŠKA BRDA TEODOR BELO
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2011
· SCORE 91
TASTING NOTES
Loads of dried pineapple, mango and meringue character on the nose and palate. It's full body, round and rich with a lovely texture of apple pie and whipped cream. A blend of 60% rebula (rebolla giallo), 20% sauvignonasse (friulano) and 20% sivi pinot (pinot noir). Very delicious now.

SIMIČIČ RIBOLLA GORISKA BRDA
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2013
· SCORE 91
TASTING NOTES
A bright wine with tropical fruit such as mango and apple character. This is crisp and steely, wonderful focus and clarity. The salty undertone with the brilliant fruit delivers fresh and lively character. Drink now.

SIMIČIČ RIBOLLA GORIŠKA BRDA MARJAN SIMIČIČ SELEKCIJA
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2011
· SCORE 91
TASTING NOTES
Lots of dried apple and lemon rind character. Full body, with layers of fruit and a long and flavorful finish. Phenolic and stylish. Drink now.

SIMIČIČ PINOT GRIGIO GORIŠKA BRDA
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2013
· SCORE 90
TASTING NOTES
Lots of marzipan, meringue and dried apple and pear character here. Full body, round and silky texture and a juicy finish. Almost like a red in texture but lots of fruit and style. Drink now.

SIMIČIČ FRIULANO SAUVIGNONASSE GORIŠKA BRDA
· COUNTRY Slovenia
· REGION Primorska
· VINTAGE 2012
· SCORE 88
TASTING NOTES
Clean and straightforward with green apple, pear and melon character on the nose and palate. Medium body, fresh acidity and straightforward finish. Drink now.

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