The first day however was a Chardonnay day with the charming Gagnard-Delagrange. A modest house with the cellar underneath still under the watchful eye of Madam Gagnard-Delagrange, though sadly Mr Gagnard-Delagrange passed away a few years ago. The winemaking has fallen to their grandson Marc Anthon who is carrying on the tradition of clean, well made wines from the Chassagne and Meursault appellation. Needless to say they were all fantastic and well priced, even the Batard Montrachet Grand Cru! We finished with a white and red Chassagne-Montrachet 2007, both superb and drinking now so we bought a little on the spot.
We gained the general impression of the 2011 vintage from barrel. The growers’ view is that this is a vintage that offered a little more in quantity than the 2009 and definitely more than the 2010, thankfully and will drink before the 2010. As we found out most growers believe the ’11 to be better all round in quality, which is interesting as the En Primeur campaigns for ’09 and ’10 were so successful. We can hopefully satisfy more customers with the 2011s. 2012 however will be very tricky as every winemaker endorsed the notion that quality is superb, but quantity is more than 50% down on the norm.
Starting to feel our teeth strain under the acidity and our nose turn red due to the freezing conditions, (weirdly colder than UK) we left Amiot in the falling sun to find our last appointment of the day, Domaine H. Lamy. The Pincher got the home rather than the winery address and the Smoker moaned and smoked but we arrived at Olivier’s house to be taken down the road to his stand alone winery surrounded by the plants we all love. What a climax to the day to taste a range of the best St Aubin around including a Puligny and a little Grand Cru, ten wonderful whites that I have always cherished.
Written by Jason Busby, Director