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Monday 19 March 2012

The Cederberg Wilderness, by Alex Robertson

Having heard so much about the beauty and uniqueness of The Cederberg Wilderness Area near Cape Town, I made it top of my priorities to visit our friends at Cederberg Private Cellar, on my recent trip to South Africa. A three hour drive north of Cape Town takes you through a dusty, dry and arid landscape, with striking mountains all around covered in the most extraordinary rock formations.  


It was hard to imagine there being any vineyards up here in the wilderness but eventually the beautiful Dwarsriver Farm was in sight and not much later my parched companions and I were enjoying our first refreshing glass of Cederberg Chenin Blanc 2011, cooling and revitalising our souls as the last rays of sun stretched across the magnificent scenery.




The Cederberg winery has the highest vineyards in the Cape. The cooler climate, pure mountain air and water ensures the vineyards are virus free.  The only pests to the vines are baboons, which like me, have an insatiable hunger for the deliciously ripe Chenin grapes on their last days of hanging, so there are men on guard all day to keep these intruders at bay.

We were staying at The Sandriff Holiday Resort which is part of the Cederberg Farm and a fantastic base for all the amazing hiking found in the area. I can’t recommend staying here enough for those who like the great outdoors.  On our first morning we set off to The Cracks, a 4 hour round trip involving lots of scrambling and climbing over and under boulders and in and out of giant caverns within the Wolfberg Mountain.  Simply amazing!
David Nieuwoudt is the head-winemaker at Cederberg and has been a member of The Cape Winemakers Guild since 2005.

He also proves rather nifty on the braai, as we discovered over a true South African banquet on our second night. Along with all the amazing food, we were spoilt with a tasting of some of the purest and most delicious wines of our trip.

Highlights included:
Cederberg Chenin Blanc 2011 (£10.26 per bottle)This crisp, reductively made Chenin Blanc is in true Cederberg Style, showing a powerful nose of tropical melon, grapefruit and lemon peel. Five months of lees contact created a mouth tingling crispness with a lingering finish. Superb food compatibility. Definitely one of the most successful Cape Chenins of the last decade.
Cederberg Five Generation Chenin Blanc 2010 (£19.66 per bottle)Limited ± 180 cases of five selected barrels from one site. Delicate aromas of honey and lime zest laced with sweet vanilla undertones.  Well-integrated wood and ageing on the lees developed a full, rich palate with a smooth lingering finish.  Concentrated; structured for longevity.  An elegant well crafted wine.
David Niewoudt Ghost Corner, Elim, Semillon 2010 (£16.15 per bottle)Distinctive cool-climate minerals, nettles, figs and dusty dry fynbos express Elim provenance. Small proportion fermented in new French oak added complexity and length with smokey bacon aromas. Firm acidity for mouth watering freshness. Ideally suited to food. Will develop beautifully in the next 3 to 4 years
Cederberg Bukettraube 2010 (£9.85 per bottle)Great partner to traditional Cape Malay or Indian curries, spiced poultry or blue cheese. Try this wine as a summer alternative to regular dessert wines, served with fruit and cheese platters or baked fruit desserts. Serve well chilled.
Cederberg Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (£14.26 per bottle)Concentrated dark fruits of blackcurrant and cassis, laced with a subtle mint undertone. 15 months of maturation in French oak lends a hint of tobacco leaf and adds an intricate smokey element to this complex wine. Expect this wine to mature gracefully in the next 8 years. A prime example of a well crafted South African Cabernet Sauvignon.
Cederberg Shiraz 2008 (£14.89 per bottle)A powerful yet elegant Shiraz with a multitude of aromatic layers and rich concentration. Expect intense mulberry flavours layered with roasted coffee beans, dark chocolate and spice. A well structured wine with a lingering velvet finish that will age superbly in the next 4 – 8 years. Pair with South African game, powerful cheeses such as a young cheddar or gruyere or indulge by pairing with intricate dark bitter chocolate.
Cape Winemakers Guild Teen Die Hoog Shiraz 2008
Power with elegance. Modern and delicious. Intense Shiraz fruit. The low-yielding red slate vineyards result in lovely roasted coffee, ripe plum with dark chocolate and spicy fynbos flavours. Velvety texture with subtle, well balanced tannins. Impressive length and a long finish. Will develop superbly over the next 5 – 8 years.
A huge thank you to all at Cederberg for making our stay such a special and memorable trip.

Written by Alex Robertson, Private Client Sales Manager

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